A Visitors Guide to the Gorges du Fier
The little-known gorges with a big history and even bigger personality is the perfect destination for adventurous travelers looking for an off the beaten path experience.
It was a bit rainy, but still so cool!
Everyone has heard of France’s famed Gorges du Verdon, which is absolutely stunning, but overly saturated with tourists, especially in the warm, summer season. So, when I saw a photo of a girl waving from a platform that was hanging off a rugged mountain cliff with raging waters swirling below, I screenshot the photo and description, not knowing where it was, but immediately knowing I wanted to go. Despite the photo labeling the location as Gorge du Annecy, I was easily able to identify it as Gorges du Fier after googling around and comparing my screenshot to other photos posted. It just so happens, we were going to be an hour away from its location while visiting the charming town of Megève up north, which felt a little serendipitous, as the trip was planned at the last minute.
The view looking down before starting to head into the gorges!
A Little Background
The gorges was formed by the powerful waters of the Fier river and took between 20,000 and 30,000 years to be carved into the shape it is today. The river, running through both the Haute-Savoie and Savoie departments, eventually winds it ways to nearby town of Annecy, draining into its famous lake.
Visitors access the gorges via an elevated footbridge, which is attached to the rock 25m above the river. The bridge, which was designed and built in 1869 by Annecian architect Marius Vallin was completed in July 1869 after 10 months of construction. Miraculously, builders transported themselves via wooden barrels, scaling the wall using a system of pulleys to fix solid metallic consoles into the rock walls.
The place all to ourselves!
Notable Sites to Visit in and around the Gorges
La Mer des Rochers- Both gushing water and erosion have helped carved distinct paths through these slabs of limestone rocks, resemble the waves of the sea. The ridges formed on the limestone rocks are called lapies, or limestone pavements. In some parts, the water’s erosion of these lapies formed the particular tops of the rock, called convection niches.
It’s this part of the gorges where you find yourself off of the elevated platforms and hiking amongst the rocks and rugged terrain. When we visited, it was intermittently raining, making the path a bit slippery. The uneven, rocky surface was, at times, a little hard to traverse. Please take this into consideration when choosing footwear. While no particular gear is suggested for the walk/hike, this part would be a bit more difficult in sandals or shoes without grip.
La Mar de Rochers!
Clairière des Curieux - An educational space dedicated to the history of the gorges. Make sure to stop by and read the panels to gain some background on its geographic location, water cycle and the attractions found in and around the gorges.
L’Îlot des Légendes - Legend has it that the Count of Montrottier had been concerned about his wife, Diane, and her whereabouts when the couple weren’t together.
Because of this, he hired a young page to follow her and report back to him what he discovered during his surveillance. Soon enough, the little page found Diane in the arms of her husband’s rival, the Count of Pontverre during one of his observations.
It is said that the little page was secretly in love with Diane and, seeing this, turned jealous with rage at that couple’s secret triste. During Diane and the Count’s next rendez-vous, the page staged a trap to reveal the couple’s secret affair. When they discovered that they had been followed and set up, the Count of Pontverre fled on horseback, attempting to distance himself from the scene. The little page, however, wasn’t going to let him get away so easily. He chased after the Count, grabbing hold of his horse’s tail in order to keep up with him.
As the horse climbed further above the Fier river and the gorges, the Count cut the horses tail in an attempt to lose the little page. The boy fell into the mouth of the gorges, lost in the complete darkness and rushing waters. It is said that, from time-to-time, inhabitants around the area still hear distant moans coming from the gorges. Some believe it is the little page, lamenting his love for Diane.
Marmites de Géants- Giants Kettles, or cylindrical-shaped dips carved deep into the riverbed, were created by thousands of years of the rushing, swirling waters and erosion. After crossing the Pont des Laisses from the parking lot, you will enter the left bank of the Fier and begin your journey on the Bois du Poète. From the bridge, however, you can see two kettles formed deep below the river.
The beautiful, shady walk through the Bois du Poète will lead you to the entrance to the gorges.
Where to Eat
There are two spots close by for a meal or snack depending on what kind of experience you’d like to have after your visit to the gorges.
Taverne de Pontverre- As you walk from the carpark to the entrance to the gorges, you will pass Taverne de Pontverre, specializing in Savoie-style cuisine. The tavern is cozy and rustic, giving visitors a much-needed respite after trekking the gorges and exploring the rocky landscape.
La bar et Terrasse Gorges du Fier- For a little snack or beverage, the Gorges’ ticket booth has a small cafe for visitors to relax after their hike. Its options are limited, but the view from the terasse overlooking the gorges is absolutely stunning. The ticket office also doubles as a small gift shop for visitors to peruse, which also has regional specialties for purchase.
Looking up from the elevated walkway.
Experiences around Gorges du Fier
The Gorges is located in Lovagny, a small town known for its miraculous castle, which is open to the public for tours and, of course, the beautifully unique Gorges du Fier. Many visit these spots as a day trip from Annecy, which is about 30 minutes away.
Montrottier Castle - Open April through October, the medieval château dates back to the 13th century and allows visitors to peruse the castle just as it was left in the early 1900’s. It’s last inhabitant, Léon Marès, even wrote detailed instructions into his will, stating the château was to remain untouched so further generations could appreciate its history. Labeled a “Musee de France” in 2003, the incredible wealth of historical objects in the castle are comprised of objects collected from all over the world, each from different time periods. Your ticket purchase includes a one-hour tour and entrance to certain exhibits, such as the Salle des Armes (weapons) and the Salle des Collections Orientales, which are only accessible through a tour.
Andy, letting us all know he is here!
More things to do….
Golf Montrottier- Visitors looking for a relaxing, low-key activity after visiting the château and gorges can find Golf Montrottier just three minutes from both sites. Whether hitting a bucket of balls or challenging the family in a round of mini golf, Golf Montrottier is the perfect activity to finish your visit at the gorges.
Annecy- The incredibly adorable town of Annecy is a little under 30 minutes away. With the lake being the center of the town, water sports are the center of activities of the vieux ville. Grab a kayak and head out onto the lake to enjoy the beautiful surroundings.
Lake Annecy!
A Few Tips Before You Go
Hours of Operation: March 15- October 15 - Monday- Friday from 9:30 AM - 6:15 PM in the offseason and 9:30 AM-7:15 PM in the summer months.
Bringing Kids: Stollers are prohibited in the gorges and all children unable to walk on their own must be carried through it in a baby carrier. It is also forbidden to carry children in your arms. They do offer carriers to rent, but those cannot be reserved ahead of time and are first come, first serve.
Bringing Dogs: Dogs are forbidden in the gorge. This includes on leashes or in carriers.
Wheelchair Access: Unfortunately, due to the narrowness of the footbridge, wheelchairs are not permitted in the gorge.
Parking: The town has two free parking lots.
-Parking N° 1 "Grand Parking" (Pont des Liasses) is designated for cars, buses, and motorhomes. It is important to note, however, that motorhomes must vacate the lot before 7:30 PM as they are not authorized to spend the night there.
-Parking N° 2 "Petit Parking" (Pontverre) is designated for cars only. This lot closes when the park closes, so make sure to return to your car before then in order to make sure you don’t get stuck overnight.
Tickets: Tickets can be purchased at the ticket office by cash or card. However, there are quite a few reports of the internet malfunctioning, leaving cash as the only payment option. I would bring cash just in case as the nearest ATM is a little over 5 minutes away by car.
Swimming in the Gorge: Swimming in the Fier is prohibited and a is fineable offense. This is because the current is very, very strong, the beds are deep and the hydroelectric dame releases water sporadically, making swimming every dangerous.
Getting to the Gorge without a Car: Annecy City Tours offers a tour of the Gorges du Fier with the Château de Montrottier. For more information, visit here.
Bonne Exploration!
-Rachel
