Wandering the Streets of Gigondas
Known for its vines and wines, this little village is the perfect stop for any traveler looking to explore the Dentelles and immerse themselves in a truly charming Provençal village
This is a part of a 5 town series. Check back every few week for a new village to discover!
Some may be wondering why exactly Gigondas made the list in my “lesser-known-towns” series. Yes, it is true, Gigondas is world renown for their incredible wines, but, beyond that, it seems as though most visitors haven’t explored past it’s vines and their wines.
As we started to climb the streets going deeper into the town, we came to Atelier d'Art Contemporain and began to chat with one of its three owners. She told us that, in fact, the atelier was moving into the old tourist office space and that she was happy for this. “Most people come into the bottom of town to buy some wine and leave,” she said, a bit disappointed that many don’t make it up far enough to see her work. Their new location will be front and center as visitors enter the town, giving them a sneak peak of the many different facets this town has to offer.
As we weaved through the town’s tiny, cobbled streets to the old castle ruins and church, I saw what she meant. We had the place all to ourselves! Sadly, it was as if people didn’t take advantage of everything the town had to offer, skipping over its rich history in lieu of one of the many tasting rooms located in and around the town center.
I must admit, my first time in Gigondas was in fact on a wine tour that led us to multiple estates nestled into the outskirts of town. It was an incredibly charming day and I do recommend taking some time to pop into a few tasting rooms and exploring the wines they have to offer. Usually, we devote one day of the summer to head to Gigondas and visit 3 or 4 new estates and sample their wines. The town has so, so many wine producers, it is hard to decide exactly where to visit. If you are someone who is a bit indecisive, simply googling “wine tours” and “Gigondas” and some guided tours will come up. These are nice for the complete novice, as they have the cellars already selected and, many times, include transportation and even a pre-selected stop for lunch.
It is, however, much less expensive to tour the estates on your own, and you can find many caves to stop at just by googling “wine tastings” and “Gigondas.”
A Little Background
With only around 700 inhabitants living in and around Gigondas, vineyards almost double its residence, with a staggering 1250 hectares of vines between all of the estates combine.
While there are a few theories as to where the name “Gigondas” derives from, some believe it could come from the phrase, “gignit undas” or “risen or emerged from the waters”. Another theory says it could have come from a legionnaire who was the first resident of Gigondas, named “Jucundas.” The most popular theory, however, is that the town comes from the Roman word, “Jocunditas,” meaning joyful.
Before wine became the main draw to Gigondas, it was the sulfurous springs that drew in crowds seeking eternal youth and longevity from the mineral-rich waters. While the source was found in 1744, it wasn’t until around 1850 that the Bourbousson family created the thermal spa of Montmirail, welcoming guests until the spring ran dry around 1940.
The town earned it’s spot as a wine destination when, in 1971, it was the first region to gain the “Cru des Côtes du Rhône” appellation, sealing its standing in the wine world.
Notable Sites to Visit in Gigondas
The old sun dial
Sainte Catherine Church - Built in the 11th century, Sainte Catherine Church rests at the top of the town and is accompanied by one of my absolute favorite antiquities, an old sundial, decorating the right wall of the cathedral.
The Old Hospice- If you climb a little further past the church, you will come to a large feudal castle that was once one of the Prince of Orange’s residences. Around 1678, the residence was decidedly repurposed, and a hospice was built on the site of the former castle. Later, the space was used as a school for girls after the French Revolution until it was finally abandoned and left to decay around 1904. It wasn’t until 1982, when the association "Gigondas d’Hier et d’Aujourd’hui", took on its restoration, now using the space for winemakers on the ground floor and contemporary art exhibitions upstairs. In the summer, months the AOC Gigondas uses the location for a sensory workshop… but more on that below!
Château Ruins and Ramparts - Climbing further up past the church, visitors can see what is left of the château ruins and ramparts, dating back from the Middle Ages.
Chapel of Saint-Cosme- A Romanesque chapel dating back to the 16th century, the chapel was destroyed and reconstructed in the 17th century. Today, only the apse and the transept remain, which became the nave of the new building.
The family is in the middle of a restoration of the building, which should be completed around fall of 2024. When asked, a family member wasn’t quite sure if people would be allowed inside after the work has been completed, but it is quite beautiful just to view, even from the outside. It is located just on the outskirts of town and, if you happen to do the hike up the Dentelles, one route takes you right past it on your way back to town.
Almond Encrusted Cod -Le Carre Gourmand
Where to Eat
There are many restaurants and eateries within the cobbled streets of Gigondas, each providing the perfect meal after a long hike or an afternoon of tastings. Here are just a few of the many establishments to choose from:
Le Clos de l’Oustalet- This restaurant provides diners with a Michelin star experience, while enjoying the beauty of being in the heart of Gigondas. For diners who are looking for a less elevated dining experience, the restaurant also has a bistro, still offering beautiful food, but at a more reasonable price.
Le Carre Gourmand - This restaurant is located up one of the main side streets of town, with a small patio shaded by a large tree and allowing the guests to feel tucked away from the crowds just steps below. The portions are generous for the incredibly reasonable price and the staff is warm and welcoming.
Les Florets- Doubling as a hotel and restaurant, guests love the Provençal atmosphere that is accompanied by the beautiful menu. Guests can enjoy the beautiful scenery of the Giogondas vines, while taking in the stunning landscape of the Dentelles.
Chocolaterie Lencieux- A seven-minute car ride outside of town, this little sweets shop is definitely worth a stop. It’s family-owned, so make sure you check the hours before making the trip, but you wouldn’t be disappointed!
Experience in Gigondas
Being encapsulated by vineyards and its proximity to the Dentelles, Gigondas has activities for adventure seekers and indulgers of gastronomy alike.
Dentelles de Montmirail- Renown for its hiking and climbing, an entrance to the hike for the Dentelles is located conveniently right next to the parking lot of Gigondas. Along with it’s incredible hiking paths, the Dentelles also have coveted mountain bike trails, allowing the landscape to be explored in a variety of ways.
Sensory Workshop - Held in the old, now restored Hospice, the sensory workshop is something incredibly unique to Gigondas. Jean Lenoir, known around France as “Le Nez du Vin,” invites you to visit the space and try his kit, a sensory experience of the different wines of France. With scents like raspberry, licorice, green pepper, and smoked notes, even kids can participate and test their nose to see if they can figure out the notes. The workshop is open Tuesdays through Sundays from 11am - 2pm and again from 3pm- 7pm.
This particular kit had only the scents of wines specifically from Gigondas.
Horse Riding the Dentelles- While hiking is a great way to discover the Dentelles, horseback riding allows visitors to enjoy nature in a completely different way!
Ecurie des Garances- This stable offers anywhere from one hour to full day tours traversing the beautiful Provence landscape. They aren’t located in Gigondas but do offer riding tours around the Dentelles.
VisitFrenchWines.com- This company offers you an experience to mix wine tasting with riding around Gigondas and its other neighbors, stopping at different producers while enjoying the beautiful vines!
A Few Tips Before You Go
Picnics: While there are a lot of little stops along the hiking trail perfect for taking a break and having a picnic, non-hikers can enjoy a picnic among the vines. Guests can park along the tasting room of Caveau Gabriel Meffre and use their picnic tables located between their parking lot and vineyards. (Caveau Gabriel Meffre, 344 Route de Sablet 84190 Gigondas)
There is also a stone table and bench located around the old Hospice, around the top of the town. This location gives incredible views of the landscapes below!
And finally, located at the bottom of Place Gabriel Andéo, there is a stone bench and tables located under a few shady plane trees and a fountain where guests can relax and have a bite to eat.
Parking: There are a few parking lots for visitors driving to the village.
-Address: Rue Raymond V des Baux, 84190 Gigondas
-Address: Mnt des Hospices, 84190 Gigondas
-Address: Chem. de la Gardette, 84190 Gigondas
Hiking: Gigondas is a great town for hikers and bikers a like. This site has the best information/maps connecting nature seekers to paths in and around the town. The most popular trail starts at next to the parking lot of Gigondas. Just look for the little signs with arrows.
Bonne Exploration!
-Rachel
