Off to Crestet for the Day!

Perched up high on a crest at the northernmost part of the Dentelles de Montmirail mountain range, Crestet is the secret Provençal village you’ve been dreaming about!

This is a part of a 5 town series. Check back for a new village to discover!

Living in Vaison, we had passed signs for the village of Crestet on so many occasions, and had always said we needed to stop and explore, but somehow we never got around to it.

Often, when explorations around Vaucluse came up in conversations with our French friends, we would mention Crestet as somewhere we wanted to stop and explore. More often than not, though, they would tilt their head, thinking perhaps they didn’t hear us correctly. Sometimes our pronunciation was off and they’d lean forward, waiting for our second attempt at the pronunciation, this time, however, we were actually (to our surprise, and probably theirs) spot on. It wasn’t the pronunciation they were thrown off by… it was the actual location itself.

“Why do you want to visit there?” a neighbor once asked inquisitively.

“We don’t know, we’ve never been,” Andy confirmed matter-of-factly. She shrugged her petit shoulders in the very French, lassiez-faire fashion, letting out a breathy, “bon” and didn’t pry any further. She had lived in Vaison for 20 plus years. The sleepy village of Crestet perhaps wasn’t as much of a mystery to her as it was to us newcomers.

Living in Provence, though, it isn’t abnormal to be driving down a windy, country road and be stopped in your tracks by a medieval village perched up high, cascading in compact clusters down the face of a rock cliff. While the sight wasn’t so unusual, I still couldn’t fathom the site of it ever becoming as mundane as it was to our friends.

Fast forward to this summer, we had promised our dear friend from Picardie, Agnès, a few days packed with the exploration of numerous idyllic Provençal villages during her stay and, of course, had the normal line up of usual suspects to visit. We spent hours meandering through the Sunday markets of L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue. We nibbled on lunch while overlooking the beautiful landscape from the tippy top of Ménerbes. We even faced the sweltering heat to trek back in time and admire the stunning ancient Roman architecture of the theater in Orange.

On one of the days, however, I wanted to take Agnès off the beaten path and finally seek out the chateau that literally stopped Andy and I in our tracks last summer. We had been driving back to Vaison from Faucon on a road we’d never taken before and rounded a corner to find a beautiful chateau teetering at the summit of a rugged and craggy hilltop. Lush, green vineyards with the tiniest hint of newly budding purple encompassed the hill’s base, allowing the structure to stand out unobstructed for miles. We pulled over immediately, checking our google maps to see where exactly we were. Entrechaux.

Screenshooting the location pictured on my phone, I knew at some point we’d be back to explore further.

“Alors,” the tourist office attendant, who also doubled as the postman, started, “the chateau isn’t open until July.”

I’m not sure what was more endearing, the fact that town was so small that one man could sell the stamps and highlight attractions around the town on the free maps handed out to visitors, or how disappointed he looked telling us that the château wasn’t open yet.

It was the last day of June, but also Agnès last day with us. Sadly, she’d miss the opening by one day.

“If you want to visit a beautiful village, Crestet is five minutes up the road,” he pointed off into the distance.

I perked up immediately at his mention of the medieval village. Up to that point, he had been the only person who had spoken about the village in a positive light. A beautiful village.

My mind drifted back to our friend J’s reaction to hearing that we wanted to visit Crestet.

“There is nothing there…. but if you’re going to go, don’t forget your hiking boots,” she said, adding a laughing-face emoji.

Being on the way home, it wasn’t too hard of a sell. So, we all got back into the car to make our way to the beautiful village just 5 minutes away. We finally were going to visit Crestet!

A Little Background

Crestet is a tiny village of about 400 inhabitants located in the Vaucluse department of Provence. When I mention above that it’s the village you’ve been dreaming about, Crestet is, in my opinion, one of the most idyllic villages, oozing with Provençal charm and authenticity. This is, however, because there is NOTHING there. There are a few businesses below lining the main roadway, but once you drive up into the old section of the village, it’s just beautiful, ancient-stoned homes looking as if they’ve been untouched for centuries. Here, you wouldn’t find souvenir shops or cafes for tourists to take a pause like in the other overly-crowded, touristy villages, but that to us was the best part. Each time we visited, with and without Agnès, we had the whole village to ourselves, making it feel like one of the best kept secrets in Provence.

As J suggested via text, though, it’s a lot of walking up uneven, very old cobbled paths. Since we visited on the last minute suggestion of the postman/tourist office attendant, we all had regular sandals on and did just find traversing the paths.

I do want to make very clear, though, (I really like setting expectations when I can, maybe it’s the teacher in me) this is not a typical tourist town, which is why it is perfect for this list. This is an authentic village with no public restrooms, restaurants catering to travelers or shops of any kind.

Notable Sites to Visit in Crestet

The Medieval Château- Built around 840, the medieval château of Crestet is known as one of the oldest castles of the Comtat Venaissin. It’s inhabitants vastly changed throughout the centuries, leaving behind a storied past for the château.

Around 1160 the château received some new inhabitants when the bishops of Vaison-la-Romaine came to seek refuge at the château. Their own castle had been seized by Raymond VI, the Count of Toulouse, during a period of tumultuous fighting, leaving the bishops to choose the neighboring village of Crestet as their safe haven.

Around the 14th century, the château received some stylistic upgrades, gaining some of its gothic elements still seen today.

During the Revolution, the castle, being a symbol of wealth and prosperity, was ransacked, burned and left abandoned. This left the space uninhabited until WWII when a German detachment occupied the castle and some homes in and around the village for a number of years. After the war, the castle again sat vacant, slowly succumbing to the elements, waiting patiently for someone to take on the project and breathe new life into the ancient space.

In 1985 the château was purchased by famous French architect Roger Anger who had ambitious plans to salvage and modernize the crumbling structure. Known for designing the city of Auroville in India, which is recognized by UNESCO, Anger began to restore the grounds, careful as to keep the architectural integrity while modernizing its medieval layout.

Some have reported that the castle contains an underground passage that links it to the neighboring town of Vaison-la-Romaine, which would make sense if it had been used as a safe haven from the Count and his acts of aggression on the bishops of Vaison.

The last I checked, the home was still used as a private residence and is not open to the public. Upon further digging, though, I did find out that the home is actually for sale. On the site, you can see the work done by Anger to not only restore the château but add modern amenities. Take a peek inside this incredible piece of history here!

Church of St Sauveur et Saint-Sixte- Saint-Sauveur and Saint-Sixte church with its bell tower and clock are located in one of the most charming spots in the village. Wander up the main set of stairs and traverse under the vaulted passage to enter into the enchanting space. Built in the 11th century, the church was restored in 1844 and features not only Romanesque, but also Gothic and Renaissance architecture styles.

It isn’t until 1760 that the chapel gained the name “St. Sauveur.”

Stahly Foundation- The Stahly Foundation is the former residence of famed sculptor François Stahly and his wife, and well-known weaver, Claude. Built in 1966, it is said that François and Claude’s children, Bruno and Florence, helped with the construction of the compound, both being architects by trade. The collection of buildings, located in Haut du Crestet Forest Park, consisted of their home, an atelier studio and an exhibition space, which are all now listed on the registry of historic monuments or Inventaire Supplémentaire des Monuments Historiques.

The atelier was centered around a cutting edge concept for that time, with Stahly using the space as what he called, a collective workshop. To Stahly, the idea of sharing the space with younger artists and working in collaboration was an exciting and invigorating concept. The atelier was used this way for many years, hosting artists who, working along side Stahly, could share different techniques and execution styles with each other while working on the same piece.

The estate remained their family home until the property was sold to Ministry of Culture in 1985 and turned into a Contemporary Art Centre. Somewhere along the way, however, the cluster of structures were left abandon, adding to some local lore and mystery. It wasn’t until recently that the property was purchased and the current owners have taken on the task of lovingly restoring the Brutalist-style home. Word is that if all of the permits go through and there aren’t any set backs, the home’s renovations will be completed around 2026.

While it is now privately owned, the space is still incredible to stumble upon, as the cement compound literally appears in the middle of the forest. To locate the foundation, take the GR footpath in the upper part of the village.

The Old Washhouse, Well and Fountain -The beautiful fountain, dating back to 1843, is one of the most beautiful features of the village and is a must to see when visiting.

When entering into the village, you will walk past the charming stone washhouse and its old well, paying homage to the yesteryears of the village.

Notre-Dame de Prébayon Chapel & Malézieux Spring- To discover another piece of Crestet history and lore, follow the Chemin de La Verrière to the Chapel of Notre-Dame de Prébayon, leading you to the spot where a monastery was constructed in the 7th century. There, you will find the Malézieux spring, a tiny stream of water trickling down, past the ancient alter and famed for having healing powers. It is said the spring has at the ability to cure eye maladies, such as blindness. If you happen to be in the area during the Easter holiday, make sure to visit the chapel and spring that Easter Monday. There you will find a pilgrimage that has been organized at the spring for over a thousand years and an experience you will never forget!

Where to Eat

You will find a few shops and restaurants below Crestet, located directly off of the main road, Rte de Malaucène. Some may tell you that there is a bar/restaurant tucked into one of the footpaths in the village, but it has recently closed, leaving all of your options down at the bottom of the town.

La Main à la Pâte -During our first few months of living in France, our Dutch neighbors loved having us over for coffee in the late afternoon and filling us in on “the best” places to get certain items. One of the first tips they divulged was where they thought the best bread was. In France, this is essentially similar to sharing where to get water. Bread equals life in France and considered one of the essentials to live, so to be receiving such precious information early on felt a bit sacred.

“It’s a little boulangerie on the way to Carprentras called ‘La Main à la Pâte.’ They don’t ship the bread in, they make it there.”

I furled by brows, a bit confused. Up until that point, I didn’t realize that some boulangeries were actually not baking their bread in house. It almost seemed like a bit sacrilegious in a place like France. With this knowledge I wondered, who goes out of their way to visit a bakery that bakes the bread on site in a place like France? At that point of the conversation, though, we didn’t even know that this particular spot was located right at the bottom of an absolutely charming village.

At that point, we had actually been visiting the bakery on and off for months before the little town nestled above was even on our radar. Sure, we saw it from the road way as we passed, but the connection wasn’t there quite yet.

The boulangerie, however, is absolutely excellent and the family members who runs it are so incredibly kind. While they do have wonderful breads and pastries, it’s also a great spot to grab a sandwich or quiche for a light lunch or snack. There are also a few tables out front to sit under the shade and take a pause from your explorations.

***Pro tips:

*Sometimes there is a little van that sets up in the parking lot selling miscellaneous items such as goat cheese or some fruits or veggies, simple things that could be bought to add to a lunch. Keep an eye out for them inorder to purchase some items to add to your picnic.

*There is also a man (very hard to miss!) located across the street from the bakery on the other side of the roundabout who specifically sells strawberries. Pick up a basket as a sweet little snack to nibble on as you explore the village or to accompany your sandwich.

Nougat Tolleron Crestet- Update: Permanently Closed!!! (Comment below says the owner has recently retired and the shop has been shuttered)

This little shop is set back a little from the main road, but as you drive past all of the commerce, you will see a bold nougat sign painted on one of the buildings, making it pretty easy to locate. While the shop’s name lets you in on their main product for sale, it also has a plethora of goodies other than just their famous nougat. The walls are lined with baskets of beautiful meringues, cookies and chocolates, making it a great stop to pick up the perfect gift for friends or a little treat just for you.

The Loupiote- Also located off of the main road below the town, La Loupiote is a pizzeria that also serves burgers and desserts. It’s the perfect stop if you want a sit-down restaurant that is family friendly.

Experience in and around Crestet

Because this town is so tiny, the town itself is the experience. While there aren’t too many things to do other than explore and take in it’s beauty, there are a few experiences around the town to get into.

• Chêne Bleu- Set behind the village, deep amongst the forest and vines, visitors will discover Domaine de la Verrière, a medieval priory in Crestet that has been fully restored into a beautiful eco-luxury retreat specializing in wine experiences and sustainable, organic dining. The jump to winery wasn’t too much of a stretch for the owners, as the Domaine had been a grape-growing dependency for the Abbaye de Prebayon for centuries.

  Gaining its name from Eliot de Montvin, an artisan who was licensed to blow glass at the priory in 1427, La Verrière is the perfect stop for the day or even a long weekend. Make sure to check the scheduled, though. This 9th century structure is mostly used as a retreat throughout the year, but does double as a bed and breakfast during certain times.

  If visiting for the day, the Domaine has incredible experiences for the wine enthusiast. Tours are offered in English and in French and range from a simple guided tour of the vineyard and cellar to unique classes such as: Introduction to Wine Tasting, The Art of Blending, and Wine Maker for the day!

  Whether visiting for a brief time or staying for a night or two, the Domaine offers a few “Farm to Fork” themed dining experiences, all with the ability to suit your needs.

  Guests can enjoy a Provençal picnic to accompany their day in the vines or a bento-box style lunch, which can be enjoyed on their terrace while taking in the sweeping views of the surrounding area. Both choices have the option for guests to purchase bottles or glasses of wine to enjoy with their plates.

  For visitors looking to linger a little longer, Chêne Bleu offers lunch from April to the end of October or a sustainable cooking class, which offers participants the chance to visit the medieval gardens where they will forage for fresh, organic vegetables, herbs and fruits to use while they partake in their class.

  Designated by UNESCO as a Biosphere Reserve, the property surrounding Chêne Bleu is the ideal spot for someone looking to have a unique experience in Provence while enjoying nature and the fabulous wine of the Vaucluse region.

A Few Tips Before You Go

• A Warning for Summer Travelers: Because the medieval part of the village is pretty rural, we suggest packing light snacks and bottles of water. There are some days in the summer where the heat is close to or even over 100 degrees. Make sure to stay hydrated.

• Parking: There are a few parking options for this village, including:

  -As you start driving up into the village, you will see signs for a visitor parking lot. This is located right below the village and usually has plenty of parking. There is a small staircase at the end of the parking lot, away from the main road. Take the stairs and you will enter the village.

  - There is also a really nice parking lot up at the château, which we wish we had known about. I would suggest parking there. The views are absolutely stunning and you can wander down into the town from there.

• Hiking: There are a few hiking trails in and around Crestet all featuring different levels of difficulty and lengths of time. For more information and maps, check here!

Bonne Exploration!

-Rachel