A Day Away in the Charming Village of Bormes-les- Mimosas
Perched up high above the sparkling Mediterranean Sea, this 4 flower village provides sweeping views and charming medieval alleys for visitors to traverse
This is a part of a 5-town series. Check back every few weeks for a new village to discover!
When Andy and I take weekend trips, we always google “best towns” around whichever location we’re staying for the next few days in order to get some inspiration for our downtime. Being stationed in Hyères, the search came back with the usual suspects… Saint Tropez, Canne, Saint Raphaël and, of course, Hyères’ famous neighbor, the island of Porquerolles. It wasn’t until we visited the hotel lobby looking for some fresh towels that we asked the concierge where all of the other guests were. “If I had to guess, probably Bormes,” he said with a simple shrug.
The phone rang and he turned to answer the call, leaving us to wonder what or where Bormes was. It hadn’t come up in any of our lists, so we were interested to find out where all the other visitors had wandered off to for the day.
A Little Background
Named for the jasmine and honey scented bushes, or “mimosas”, that speckle the region, Bormes is the starting point of the famous "Route des Mimosas" drive, taking passengers over 100 kl through the beautiful South of France and ending in ever-so-famous village of Grasse.
Notable Sites to Visit in and around Bormes
Château des Seigneurs de Fos- Perched high above the village of Bormes les Mimosas, this castle is known as one of the oldest castles in Basse Provence and was named for Roger de Fos, who settled there around 1257. The castle was owned by a number of lords, but it wasn’t until 1654 where it’s last resident, the lord of Covet, decided to move out of the castle, settling outside of the ramparts and ceded the property to the Minime Religious.
The castle was later used as a convent and managed to remain almost intact until around the 1790’s, when the castle was used as barracks for soldiers who joined the armies of the republic. After the revolution, the castle was purchased at auction by Donat Crest, who had the castle until around 1850, when it was then acquired by François-Philemon Giraud. It was Giraud who had the chapel built.
While the 12th century château has been left in ruins and is not open for public visits, it is still quite pretty to stop by while wandering around the town and provides sweeping views for visitors to take in as they explore.
Cuberts - Perhaps it is because Andy and I had just come back from visiting Lyon, which is famous for their traboules, or tiny alleyways connecting you to different streets through hidden passageways, but when I heard about the cuberts in Bormes, I was fascinated. Cuberts, or little passages found under the village houses, were streets where villagers stored the food for their animals during the winter months. Wander through a few and get lost in the charming history of Bormes!
Saint Trophy Church- Built in the late 1700’s, Saint Trophy Church was named for Trophime, the first bishop of Arles dating back to the year 250. The church was constructed in order to replace the church found on the grounds of the château that had since fallen into disrepair. While the Romanesque-style church is beautiful on the outside, visitors must not skip visiting the inside. There they will find the beautiful religious frescoes that were only rediscovered in 1998. The frescoes had been hidden under a coating during the French Revolution and have only now been displayed for all to appreciate.
The Massif des Maures - Perfect for visitors looking to explore the landscape in and around Boumes, this natural reserve is a must. Filled with more than 1,500 plants and wildlife, visitors can explore by hiking, hitting the trails on mountain bikes or by horseback which offer stunning views of the surrounding hillsides.
For hikers, The Massif des Maures offer hiking routes for different levels and lengths of time. Check here for trail information.
*Make sure to check before departing, some trails can be closed in the summer months due to the threat of wildfires.
The Museum of Art and History -This museum was opened in 1926 by painter Emmanuel-Charles Bénézit and is a beautiful love letter to the the town and its surrounding areas, showcasing artistic and cultural history of the Var region. The museum itself is housed in a 17th century building, paying homage to the architecture style found in and around Bormes, which contrasts well with the mostly 19th and 20th century works of art displayed from regionally significant artists.
Upon entering, each guest is given a “Histopad” or a touch-screen tablet, which can be used in conjunction with the upper-level exhibition. Following along as each station in the experience allows you to explore a particular time period or event via the Histopad, the first time augmented reality has been used at a museum in France.
*Check the museum’s website for their schedule as they often have fun events throughout the year. This summer, they are offering an escape game that is perfect for anyone looking to learn more about the region and take a break from the blistering heat.
Fort of Brégançon- This secret, tiny island was only recently discovered in 2012, with most locals not even knowing about its existence. Only accessible by taking a dike, the island used to be frequented by French presidents looking for a little “under-the-radar” relaxation. After its discovery, however, the island was swarmed with paparazzi, leading it to be changed to a national monument for tourists to visit.
Café De La Cueva
Where to Eat
There are a few restaurants and eateries within the winding rues of Bormes, each providing a different experience and price point for guests. Despite Bormes not usually being found on many “best of” lists of villages, the restaurants are popular, and most do require a reservation during the summer.
Le Jardin- This Michelin-starred restaurant completely lives up to its name. As soon as guests walk into the space, you feel as though you have wandered into a lush, secret garden. Serving from scratch, French-Mediterranean cuisine, this starred restaurant is set at a gentler price point than the other Michelin restaurants located in and around the area, without losing any of the wow factor or deliciousness.
Lou Portaou - Located in an ancient passageway in the heart of the village, this restaurant is known for having true Provençal dishes that will take diner’s tastebuds right back to the rustic hearth of days gone by. Despite the almost hidden location, this is an absolute favorite spot for many, so make sure to make a reservation.
La Terrasse de l'Osteria- While the fresh, seasonal Provençal cuisine is something I miss dearly when I return to the U.S., I do tend to need to switch things up occasionally throughout the summer. For someone seeking a break from the traditional Southern French cuisine, this restaurant offers fantastic Italian inspired dishes made with love and care.
Café De La Cueva- Located in the charming Place Poulid Cantoun, this restaurant is perched above the main road and incased in flora, allowing the average visitor to just walk by without even realizing the gem they have passed! Wander up the worn, stone steps and arrive at the beautifully decorated tapas bar. Guests can enjoy glasses of wine and nibbles while relaxing under the canopy of trees and leaves.
Experiences in Bormes-les-Mimosa
Because the region is so immersed in flowers, it is no surprise that the flower enthusiast will have plenty of activities to partake in around the village.
Corso de Bormes-les-Mimosas -If you are visiting the town around February, make sure that you plan your visit around the Corso de Bormes-les Mimosas, which happens the last week of February. Each year, the theme is different, which gives the participating floats the chance to get creative with their floral decorations. Follow the brass bands and take in the beautiful parade. Make sure to stay until the end of the parade when the famous “battle of flowers” takes place!
"Medieval Bormes" - One of the most popular events of the year takes place during Easter weekend. Step back in time with troubadours, a medieval market, a fire show, equestrian tournaments, and a medieval fair and the whole town turns medieval.
Water Enthusiast Paradise - While Bormes itself is not located on a beach, it is just minutes away from the adorable town of Le Lavandou, which has a plethora of activities for anyone looking for sun and sand. While we opted to stay at the beach and rent some fantastic sun beds, there is everything from snorkeling and kayaking to sailing and water skiing, to even jet skiing.
A Few Tips Before You Go
Market Schedule: If you’re looking to visit the town during one of its market days, the schedule is as follows:
Every Wednesday morning throughout the year
In season on Saturday morning.
In July and August on Tuesday from 5pm to midnight
Parking: The town is car free, so parking outside of it is a must. Cars and campers can park for free on Place Saint-François. There is also a parking lot above the town the town (next to the church) that is pay by the hour with a very short, 3-minute walk into town.
Tours of the Town: There are two tours offered, one on Tuesday and one on Thursday. The gardens can be toured on Tuesday, while a historical walk through the village takes place on Thursday.
Bonne Exploration!
-Rachel
